Armenia/Georgia
by Russell Wagenaar
Haghpat Monastery Exploring new and unfamiliar destinations is the essence of travel, isn’t it? Until recently, these two countries were largely uncharted
Tbilisi Evening
territory for me. So, when I was invited to join this trip, my response was enthusiastic absolutely!
The journey began on a high note with the renowned luxury airline, Qatar Airways, exceeding expectations! The QSuite Business Class on the Boeing 777 offered unparalleled comfort, enhanced further by an exceptional multinational flight crew. Their efficiency and friendliness made the 13.5-hour flight feel significantly shorter. After a smooth 2.5-hour layover at Doha’s Hamad International Airport, it was time to board the connecting 3-hour flight to Yerevan, the vibrant capital of Armenia.
Prior to leaving on the trip, I was pleasantly surprised to learn American passport holders don’t need a visitor visa to enter either Armenia or Georgia. Upon arrival in Armenia at Yerevan’s Zvartnots International Airport, the Immigration officer carefully flipped through my passport before stamping it with approval. Whew… I couldn’t help but wonder, Will every step of this trip be under such scrutiny? Thankfully, that was the only moment it thought crossed my mind!
Carole Baden, the trip organizer, and I then swiftly headed for the exit through Customs where in the arrival hall we met with Aram Khachikyan the owner of Elysian Luxury Journeys the land operator company based in Yerevan that Carole Baden represents in the United States. I was joined by an agent from New York City and another agent who is now based in a small village near Toulouse, France.
Dilijana Pool
Throughout the trip we traveled in a comfortable Mercedes Benz 6-passenger minivan, each day of touring was not more than 2 hours maximum of driving time to get to the area we were
Republic Square
visiting.From the airport it was an approximate 20-minute drive into the city of Yerevan and our accommodation at The Luxury Collection Hotel Alexander. The hotel enjoys a city center location, about a 10-minute walk to the vast Republic Square in the heart of the city. Contemporary décor in Superior, Deluxe, Grand Deluxe rooms, Studio and 1-bedroom suites. All with separate tub and walk in shower in the well-lit bathrooms. Comfortable beds with lightweight but very effective comforters. The Deluxe category rooms have a step out balcony. Indoor pool from 8am to 10pm, a nice fitness area workout room available to guests 24 hours a day and full-service spa open 10am to 10pm. Indoor lap pool is also available from 8am until 10pm.
The Italian Restaurant on the top 12th floor of the hotel serves a great variety of delicious options for breakfast. Lunch and dinner service as well, however with our daily schedule of touring and late lunches we did not have the opportunity to dine at the hotel for these meals. The restaurant also has an outdoor dining terrace open spring through early fall, weather permitting, that offers a fabulous view of Mount Ararat in the distance (on a clear day). The hotel participates in the Marriott Stars program so when booking a room through our agency we are able to offer the amenities of room upgrade if available on arrival, daily buffet/al a carte breakfast, USD100.00 hotel credit during the stay and early check in/late check out if available.
We were also able to see two other properties in Yerevan, the first was The Grand Hotel Yerevan which is a member of Small Luxury Hotels of The World. Built between 1926-28 the interior design is contemporary comfort. This luxury boutique hotel offers 104 rooms and suites, a full-service spa and restaurant.
The other property we toured is The Tufenkian Historic Yerevan Hotel. One of several hotels in the Tufenkian chain, this 4-star property is a short stroll from Republic Square and houses a
Evening time at the busy Republic Square
carpet showroom. They showcase in the storefront window, women weaving renowned handmade masterpiece carpets which the Tufenkian company is known for.
Visiting this region in mid-November we enjoyed pleasant fall weather, thankful for sunny days and daytime temperatures in the upper 50’s with overnight temperatures dipping to the lower 40’s. Both countries are very mountainous, so the snow capped scenery was beautiful. Even though we just missed the fall colors blanketing the slopes of the mountains the views and scenery were stunning.
Armenia was the first country to adopt Christianity around 300AD and I found the churches and monasteries we visited to be fascinating. The 4th century Geghard Monastery below is a remarkable complex partially carved out of the mountain.
The Noravanek Monastery, 13th century complex built on the ledge of a narrow winding gorge above the Amaghu River
We visited The State History Museum in Yerevan, which offers a great guided tour of the facility which traces the country’s history through the ages. Housing artifacts from the second and third millennia BC is a treasure trove of knowledge and incredible items. Leaving Yerevan we traveled north to Lake Sevan for a stop at the iconic Sevanavank Monastery (9th c.) located on the peninsula of Lake Sevan.
The mountainous landscape of both Armenia and Georgia offer boundless hiking trails. For a more advanced challenge biking trips are also available. Sevanavank Monastery (9th c.)
A short drive through the picturesque forests, we then stopped at the resort town of Dilijan, often referred to as the “Armenian Switzerland”. Here we had a brief tour of the Dilijani Tun resort which offers guest rooms, suites and 3-bedroom cottage accommodation. During the summer months a wonderful outdoor pool is available to enjoy with wonderful mountain views.
Our overnight between Armenia and Georgia was spent at the Tufenkian Avan Dzoraget Hotel.
Located on the banks of the Debed River in the Dzoraget canyon, this medieval chalet style 54-room hotel was crafted from basalt stone. In the summer months this area in the Lori region is one of the best areas in Armenia for hiking the verdant hills, biking and horseback riding. Rafting excursions are also possible on the river.
The 10th century UNESCO World Heritage Haghpat Monastery is also a must visit when in this area.
Crossing the border from Armenia into Georgia proved to be a swift process with no passport scrutiny as at the Zvartnots airport on arrival in Yerevan.
Once we arrived in Tbilisi we checked into our accommodation at The Paragraph Freedom Square Hotel. Also, a Luxury Collection hotel of the Marriott brand this very contemporary and modern hotel is the best in town. 12-story, 220 guest rooms including 69 suites all have floor to ceiling windows offering sweeping views over the city. Full-service spa, indoor and outdoor pools, restaurants, 2 lounges and outdoor terrace dining spring through fall. The hotel is located a few minutes’ walk from the UNESCO Old Tbilisi district.
Ready for more monasteries ?!?? With over 4000 monasteries in Armenia 3 of them are on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Georgia has 252
Needless to say the next two days we spent traveling through spectacular mountain scenery.
monasteries and 4 of those are UNESCO sites.
Traveling along the epic Georgian Military Highway that connects Georgia to Russia we made our way north from Tbilisi heading to Kazbegi traveling through breathtaking landscapes of the Greater Caucasus Mountains. Along the highway we made a brief stop at the Russia-Georgia Friendship Monument which offers the above spectacular views over the valley.
Russian-Georgia Friendship Monument.
Again, we were very lucky with great weather up to this time and thank goodness it lasted through this day of touring. Our ultimate destination was the town of Stepantsminda. After enjoying a lunch of yummy traditional Georgian dishes it was off to our awaiting 4×4 vehicle. A very speedy drive up through several switchbacks brought us to one of the most photographed churches in the country, the Gerget Trinity Church. At an altitude of approximately 7110ft above sea level, the Georgian Orthodox church overlooks the Tergi valley with sensational panoramic views of majestic 16,660ft peak of Mount Kazbek.
I still pinch myself thinking that this view was in a dream … what an incredible experience this was to stand at this distance and take in this view.
Wine Jugs and Phalki
Oh and did I mention wineries? We did visit a few in Armenia which produces world class brandies, vodka and wines.
Our only day of inclement weather came on last day of touring which kept us from visiting the ancient Caves of Uplistsikhe, so instead we paid a visit to one of the best wineries in Georgia, Chateau Mukhrani, which began as a Royal Chateau in the 16th century.
Georgia is famous for its Amber (orange) wine which gets its color from using the aged skins of the grapes that are fermented in clay pots, a method dating back to 6th century BC.
Armenian cuisine includes many fresh organic vegetables, various cheeses, herbs (think coriander and cilantro and a new one for me, sumac) and meats including lamb, chicken and beef and trout. Bread is a big staple and fixed many different ways, the most popular is the flatbread lavash. This is big thin sheets of dough flash cooked in a tandoor and served with the leafy vegetables, cheese and I opted to include yellow bee honey that was also on the board!
Lavash and Armenian Honey
The traditional Georgian bread Khachapuri — a soft bread molded into various shapes then filled with cheeses, eggs and other ingredients.
Shish-kebab or khorovatz, stuffed grape leaves and the most delicious tomato bulgur salad are other staples of
And then there is the national symbol : the pomegranate. One of the most recognizable symbols of the country, in Armenian mythology it symbolizes fertility and good fortune
the cuisine as are hummus and other mezes with chickpeas, lentils, beans and eggplant.
Meanwhile, in Georgian cuisine the walnut is king. Whole, chopped, ground or pulverized they are used in many many dishes.
Served as an appetizer, Pkhali, is a family of salads more like vegetable pate, made typically from boiled beets, carrots or spinach flavored with light spices, garlic and lemon juice and of course ground walnuts. Served side by side and often sprinkled with pomegranate seeds. Yumm….
And to top it off, Khinkali, the Georgian dumplings. Made of twisted knobs of dough and stuffed with meat or vegetables and spices … YummmMM!
A great trip with loads of history, spectacular scenery, delicious cuisines, vibrant and safe city life, and marvelous hosts and touring arrangements made possible by Elysian Luxury Journeys!